{"id":63743,"date":"2017-07-05T14:09:35","date_gmt":"2017-07-05T18:09:35","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/upstater.com\/?p=63743"},"modified":"2017-07-18T12:25:45","modified_gmt":"2017-07-18T16:25:45","slug":"rustic-gourmet","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/upstater.com\/rustic-gourmet\/","title":{"rendered":"Rustic Gourmet"},"content":{"rendered":"

When chef Bryan Calvert opened his restaurant, James<\/a>, in Prospect Park, in June 2008, Brooklyn was still finding its place on the food map. But after feeling cooped up for years while working in Manhattan restaurants, Calvert found being a Brooklyn restaurateur refreshing. James, named for Calvert\u2019s great-grandfather, a cook who emigrated from Ireland to open a restaurant in Harlem, is small, with just 45 seats, and was designed to be the upscale version of a classic, cozy, corner restaurant. Hoping to showcase his talents, Calvert filled the menu with complex \u201cspecial-occasion\u201d dishes, and basked in his good luck.<\/p>\n

\u201cIn Prospect Park, I had been living above a bodega, and then the neighborhood changed, and this restaurant opened downstairs for two years, called Swirl. They didn\u2019t quite make it, so the space opened and the opportunity came up for me,\u201d Calvert says. \u201cEverything fell into place.\u201d<\/p>\n

Nonetheless, he faced naysayers. \u201cAt first people were like, \u2018Why are you going to open a restaurant in Brooklyn? No one\u2019s going to come.\u2019 But I had the money and I was ready to do it, so I went for it,\u201d Calvert says. \u201cBrooklyn is really hot, for almost a decade now, and it\u2019s national. You don\u2019t need to be in a big city to do great food now. All these smaller cities and rural areas are doing great food. People are more savvy about good food and expect more, and it started in Brooklyn.\u201d<\/p>\n

But three months after James\u2019s opening, the economy began faltering, starting with Lehman Brothers\u2019 collapse. Suddenly, the restaurant\u2019s customers dwindled. \u201cPeople became far more conservative\u2014they were still going out to eat, but they were concerned about cost and what\u2019s going to happen,\u201d Calvert recalls. \u201cEven people who could afford fine dining and could go out and spend lots of money didn\u2019t, in emotional response.\u201d<\/p>\n\"\"\n

So Calvert reassessed James. The restaurant\u2019s d\u00e9cor was a success: The tin ceiling, long bar, chocolate-colored banquette, and white brick walls mostly unadorned except for a portrait of the dapper, mustachioed, and dark-eyed James Calvert combine to create what the New York Times<\/i> called a \u201ccharmingly compressed feel.\u201d But the menu needed revamping. \u201cPeople wanted comfort food, they weren\u2019t so adventurous, they wanted to heal themselves,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n

Formerly influenced mostly by French cuisine, Calvert decided to shift toward Italian culinary traditions. \u201cIn Italy, they make incredible dishes just from garlic, tomatoes and pasta,\u201d he says. \u201cSo I basically pared down, put less ingredients on the plate. For an entr\u00e9e instead of a protein and seven to eight ingredients, I used a protein and three to four ingredients. I didn\u2019t use less-expensive ingredients, but I simplified. I learned that simplicity is actually harder to do, but you can get better results. You can showcase the ingredients more when they\u2019re not hiding under each other.\u201d<\/p>\n

The new menu was a hit with both diners and critics. \u201cClassic food has greater longevity,\u201d Calvert says. \u201cMost trendy food is interesting and delicious, but it\u2019s also overly complex, too thought out, so in the end, it disappears, it\u2019s just a trend.\u201d Plus, the simpler dishes cost less to produce, so Calvert lowered the prices and instituted a burgers-and-all-night-happy hour on Mondays. Nine years later, James continues to thrive. Thrillist<\/i><\/a> noted its \u201call-around fantastic brunch menu.\u201d At New York Magazine,<\/i> it was a Critics\u2019 Pick, lauded for its \u201crefined, hyper-localized touch,\u201d and Brooklyn Magazine<\/i><\/a> chose it as one of \u201c7 Restaurants Where You Should Always Order Dessert,\u201d principally for its cheesecake, which James sells through its retail division, Cecil & Merl<\/a> (also named after beloved relatives). Huffington Post<\/i> <\/a>included James on its \u201cNew York\u2019s Best Sunday Night Suppers\u201d list, calling it \u201ca treasure\u201d that\u2019s \u201cculinarily forward thinking and\u2014sadly, an almost necessary disclaimer for BK restaurants these days\u2014not pretentious.\u201d And the New York Times <\/i>praised the \u201csmall, sweet\u201d restaurant for its \u201csuccinct, appealing menu,\u201d describing James as \u201cthe kind of modest, warm refuge produced by a chef who wants to simplify things, to personalize things, to work on a scale that doesn\u2019t require or invite the meddling of too many outsiders.\u201d<\/p>\n

James\u2019s dishes included herbs grown in a tiny adjacent outdoor garden. But as the restaurant\u2019s popularity grew, Calvert established a large garden at his weekend house in Kent, Connecticut, to grow more ingredients. \u201cThat was dear to my heart,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n

But commuting between Kent and New York\u2014not just between the restaurant and his upstairs apartment\u2014made Calvert reevaluate his life. \u201cFirst I was going up [to Kent] on weekends, and then during weekdays, and I really liked the lifestyle,\u201d he says. Besides, he confesses, he \u201chad no intention of staying in New York for more than a few years, just to get some experience, but then life happens, and 10 years go by. I realized I would probably be happier and more fulfilled living outside the city as much as possible.\u201d<\/p>\n

Though Calvert was born in New York, his family moved to suburban New Jersey when he was in elementary school. \u201cIt was in the \u201970s, the whole \u2018Bronx-is-burning\u2019 scenario,\u201d he says. As a middle school student in Westfield, he got a job washing dishes at a local restaurant, then moved on to food prepping, assisting a baker, and \u201cjust never stopped,\u201d he says. After high school, he worked as a cook before heading upstate to the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, where he earned an associate\u2019s degree in 1990. He completed a bachelor\u2019s degree at Boston University<\/a>\u2019s School of Hospitality and Administration, working as a teaching assistant in the kitchen classroom. \u201cI met Julia Child and Jacques Pepin and all these really well-known chefs who taught there\u2014really great exposure to a lot of really cool people going through the doors there,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n

Working as a journeyman chef and traveling in stints for several years took Calvert to many rural locations in Europe, California, Fire Island, and along the Appalachian Trail before he landed in New York. There, he worked as a sous chef for his former BU classmate, Rocco Dispirito, who founded Union Pacific. \u201cThe focus was much different than it is today,\u201d Calvert recalls. \u201cWe bought stuff from farms, and I was at the farmers\u2019 markets all the time, but it was mostly about getting the most exotic ingredients from all over the world.\u201d<\/p>\n

But after five years of 90-to-100-hour work weeks, Calvert needed a break. So when his stylist girlfriend mentioned that famed photographer Annie Liebowitz and her partner, the writer Susan Sontag, who died in 2004, were looking for a personal chef, Calvert jumped at the chance, cooking French-influenced food for the couple upstate at their Rhinebeck mansion and returning to New York to cater Liebowitz\u2019s photo shoots.<\/p>\n\"\"\"\"\"\"\n

\u201cI didn\u2019t realize that when you work for someone as prominent as Annie, all of a sudden a lot of people start following you,\u201d he says. He founded Bryan Calvert Catering, cooking for New York\u2019s big-name photographers, working out of Blue Hill chef Dan Barber\u2019s downtown kitchen until finding his own space in Long Island City. Then Calvert joined forces with his then-wife, events organizer Deborah Williams, to form Williams & Calvert Events. \u201cWe did that for about 10 years,\u201d he says. \u201cThat was a blast, but I still considered myself a restaurant chef, so I was always looking for a space. Then James happened.\u201d<\/p>\n

James\u2019s sensibility inspired Calvert\u2019s first cookbook, Brooklyn Rustic: Simple Food for Sophisticated Palates<\/i><\/a>, published in 2016 by Little, Brown & Company. The book, geared toward the home cook, combines rural comfort with urban worldliness. One reviewer praised the book\u2019s recipes for their \u201cfinessed familiarity.\u201d<\/p>\n

To formulate Brooklyn Rustic<\/i>, Calvert asked friends, family, and colleagues what kind of cookbook they wanted. \u201cThey all said, \u2018I want recipes for a dinner party for four to six people, serving under six courses, and to be able to cook it all in one to two hours,\u2019\u201d he recalls. The result, he says, is \u201ca collection of recipes for the home cook that I\u2019ve used over the years, both professionally and personally. They\u2019re accessible and encourage using good, local ingredients.\u201d But the book is also the result of his own evolution as a chef. \u201cWhen you\u2019re younger, you want to wow people. But as you get older, you never want to stop learning things, but you realize that simplicity is a better approach,\u201d he says. \u201cI\u2019ve wanted to do my own thing, not take myself too seriously, cook from my heart, and just have fun.\u201d<\/p>\n

Brooklyn Rustic<\/i>\u2019s dishes include some James favorites: Cured Salmon; Black Kale Salad; Roasted Asparagus with Sea Salt; Lemon and Blueberry Tart; and Dulce de Leche Cheesecake; along with cocktails by James\u2019s \u201cgo-to cocktail guru\u201d Justin Lane Brigs, like the Window Box Collins and its featured Parsley Syrup. Spread among the recipes are short yet charming essays providing \u201clittle tips that can make a big difference\u201d from Calvert on every aspect of cooking, from \u201cSet Up for Success\u201d to \u201cPerfect Ripeness,\u201d \u201cHow to Select Olive Oil,\u201d and \u201cPreserving Herbs.\u201d<\/p>\n

Inevitably, Calvert decided to simplify his lifestyle to match his cooking style. In 2015, he gave up his Kent house and bought a cabin and 25 acres outside the village of Andes, in Delaware County, New York, a three-hour drive from Brooklyn and a 15-minute drive from the town of Delhi, home to dairy farms. Finding Calvert\u2019s place can be tricky. The area lacks GPS and cell phone service, requiring visitors to follow a stream bed and look for a neighbor\u2019s sign proclaiming \u201cRabbits for sale\u201d to know where to turn for Calvert\u2019s long, uphill driveway.<\/p>\n

His cabin sits at the top of a hill, as charming as a reader of his cookbook would expect. Wrapped with a porch and deck, it overlooks a wide green lawn surrounded by forest. There are flower beds, a sizable vegetable garden, abundant blueberry bushes, Calvert\u2019s pickup, and wide sweeps of both sun and shade.<\/p>\n

Inside, things get more urban. Calvert renovated the place himself, including building a staircase out of reclaimed wood, and made his own kitchen workbench extra high to fit his tall height. In the living area are a woodstove and two British vintage-inspired leather chairs from designer Timothy Oulton. There are tiny jars of pickled ramps foraged by Calvert, and, hung alongside the art throughout the open space, is a growing collection vintage serving dishes and kitchen implements that he began for the photographs in Brooklyn Rustic<\/i>. \u201cFood tells a story, and so if the stuff we put it on has a story, that makes it more interesting to me\u2014that\u2019s why we relish old things like our great-grandmother\u2019s china, we have a symbiotic connection to it,\u201d he says. \u201cBuying kitchen stuff blindly is not as rewarding\u2014just like buying food blindly.\u201d And although collecting used kitchenware is also more economical, admits Calvert, \u201cIt\u2019s not so much about cost as it is about the journey. Scavenging old junk shops takes time.\u201d<\/p>\n

These days, Calvert spends a few days each week in Brooklyn working at James. The rest of the time, he\u2019s exploring nearby parklands and villages or relaxing on top of his hill, \u201cin exploration mode,\u201d figuring out his next move, doing lots of cooking, and watching his dogs\u2014Georgia and Fisher\u2014enthusiastically patrol the property for deer and bears. Although Calvert admits it took him a while to get used to the cabin\u2019s quiet, he now \u201ccan get pretty Zen about things up here,\u201d he says. \u201cIn this busy world, it\u2019s a gift just to wash dishes.\u201d\"\"<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

When chef Bryan Calvert opened his restaurant, James, in Prospect Park, in June 2008, Brooklyn was still finding its place on the food map. But after feeling cooped up for years while working in Manhattan restaurants, Calvert found being a Brooklyn restaurateur refreshing. 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