From the department of stories we’ve been meaning to pitch but didn’t have time to: a piece from the NY Times about hip NYC chefs retreating to upstate New York and brining their culinary prowess with them. They focus on Hudson’s new Fish and Game restaurant.
“Here in Hudson, off intensely gentrified Warren Street, Mr. Pelaccio and his wife, Jori Jayne Emde, have just opened Fish and Game, a restaurant that is also a fever dream of luxury and rural kitsch, blending elements of Chez Panisse, Trader Vic’s, Dwell magazine and a yard sale at an Italian hunting lodge. Ms. Jayne concocts infusions for cocktails from the herbs they grow on their nearby farm; Mr. Pelaccio and his co-chef, Kevin Pomplun, are studying how to stretch the harvest into the winter, making pickles and jams like sour cherry-coriander.”
She also writes about a restaurant in Great Barrington, noting that “These are only two of many forays from a new vanguard of New York chefs who are retrofitting their culinary skills to the tastes and demands of rural communities — following the same earthy, everything-from-scratch ethos that became so identified with Brooklyn over the last decade.”
We have a few questions, like, would you call Warren Street intensely gentrified? Pockets of it, certainly, but we’re not sure the whole darn road has gone hipster. And then: are there other parts of Upstate where celeb chefs are making their mark?